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print3d

Ceci est une ancienne révision du document !


Upgrades

Installation carte Relai pour OctoPrint

Mosfet et switch

carte mega+ ramp

Moteurs pas à pas et pièces extrudeur

Filtre pour controleur moteur pas à pas

Prusa i3 pas chère

Anet A8

Firmware Repetier

d'après: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,641315

roginvs
Re: Firmware update Issues for Hesine Printer, Anet A8-B
June 11, 2016 01:53PM 	Registered: 7 months ago
Posts: 3
Repetier for Zonestar P802M works perfect for my Anet A8-B (https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/tree/master/boards/Zonestar%20P802M) 

Firmware Skynet3D

Explication auto leveling pour firmware marlin

Grenntech

Z probe

Pour ANET A8

Actionneur avec micro controleur intégré

Capteur inductif

Configuration Slicer

Impression couleur

Supers modèles openscad

Formes mathématiques

produit de finition et pellets

Imprimante LAAS

Reprap

Impression résine avec vidéoprojecteur DLP

Impression résine avec écran téléphone

Fonderie aluminium sur moule perdu en PLA

Récupération plastique pour fabriquer du filament

Soudure par friction

Lissage

Vapeurs d'acétone à froid

Epoxy

Cout d'impression

en 3mm

diamètre=3mm, rayon=0.15cm

volume d'un mètre linéaire= 7cm3

densité du pla=1.25g/cm3 ( https://www.filimprimante3d.fr/content/12-combien-d-objets-imprimer-avec-une-bobine-de-fil-pla-ou-abs )

masse d'un mètre linéaire= 8.8grammes

une bobine de 1kg fait 113m, et coute 18 euros donc 0.16Euros /m

en 1.75mm

diamètre=1.75mm, rayon=0.0875cm

volume d'un mètre linéaire= 2.4cm3

densité du pla=1.25g/cm3 ( https://www.filimprimante3d.fr/content/12-combien-d-objets-imprimer-avec-une-bobine-de-fil-pla-ou-abs )

masse d'un mètre linéaire= 3grammes

une bobine de 1kg fait 333m, et coute 18 euros donc 0.05Euros /m

Comparaison pour différents types d'infill

Scannerisation 3D

Impression 3D résine

Vidéo sur la plus rapide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqYEOyBmyLM

Z probe optique

Insonorisation

Capteur de filament

Fumées

BuzzBox

Solidité des pièces

Benchmark: http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/infill-strength/

Intérêt d'un boitier sur la solidité des pièces: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYW1p3T9tKo

Viewer GCode en ligne

Réglages

Petite liste

tentative.txt
Soo... This will be a long post, but let me share it, and hopefully save some time to the other newbies :)
After the usual print / tinkering / print / tinkering I noticed that I started to get these horizontal "bands" in the prints - sometimes the layers were displaced, sometimes they were just wider/narrower on all 4 sides.
And because I like to do systematic testing, I tried everything (well... almost everything - as it turned out):
- Reduced the speeds (to 30mm/s outer, 40mm inner, etc.) - usually suggested solution for all issues ;) - Didn't get better. A bit worse actually :)
- Increased the speeds (to 60-100mm/s)
- Tried different layer height (0.2, 0.3) - the issue was not so prominent on 0.3, but it was still there
- different values and combinations for some print options (acceleration - 100-400, jerk 5-10, infill 0-20). Printing with infill 20% seems to have helped a bit.
- Tried with tighter belts (to the point in which I had to finally print the rear frame brace)
- Tried with looser belts (to the point where I got ripples all over the print)
- Cleaned the extruder gear (it was clean anyway)
- Oiled all rods
- Removed the Y-Axis cable chain mod (I thought it might be putting some resistance to the movement)
- Temporarily removed the "overhead spool holder" that some hate so much (made ABSOLUTELY no difference)
- Measured all axes, everything is "square". On a side note, the pulley on my X axis motor is a liiittle bit excentric from the start (just the pulley, not the motor axis). I ordered a few replacements.
- Printed in different (warmer) room. The room in which the printer usually runs is not heated and it's 14C there now :)
- printed on different, a lot more rigid table - absolutely no difference.
- Printed on different temps (PLA): 185-220
- Tried with my old roll of filament, with which I had printed the same test cubes, and they were perfect back then. Not anymore.
- Tried slicing with Simplify3D using the settings from the files section. Oh the horror...
 
NOTHING REALLY HELPED.
 
TLDR;
You know what helped? Changing the wall thickness to 1.2 instead of 0.8. And now the cube is (almost) perfect - in reality it looks even better than the photo.
FFFFUUUUUU
I know that NOW everyone will tell me that the error was obvious, but the other day, when I initially asked about the issue, everyone was sooo quiet... ;)
 
PS: Ignore the bad first layer on the photo. It's not it's fault - small leveling errors correct themselves in the upper layers;)

Z probe piezo

Comparaison Slicer

Simplify 3D

print3d.1485107418.txt.gz · Dernière modification : 2017/01/22 18:50 de bvandepo